Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Attack of the lake flies 2/15/11

Yesterday afternoon I was sitting at my desk working on a lecture. Suddenly I heard yelling and saw people running into buildings. Julian ran into the building I was in and slammed all of the doors. Now, most people living in a developing country would be concerned about this. Are the Tanzanians attacking? Is it a pack of hungry hyenas? But I knew better. I had seen this before. It was an assault, a full on invasion . . . of lake flies.
                Lake flies are the size of a gnat. Singly they would probably never catch your attention, but they never come singly. It starts as what looks like a pillar of smoke hanging far out over the lake. The male lake flies have hatched and mated. Now they are ready to come on shore to land and die. You see them hovering in a cloud, but which direction will they go? Is the wind out there the same direction as it is on shore? Can we hope they will end up in the next bay over? Come on, go toward Muhuru Bay.
                As the plume gets closer to shore, people start preparing. They cover dishes, shut windows, and get inside. Not that being inside will help much. They are so small that they can fit through screens, and even through our trusty bed nets. There is no stopping them. Like a cloud of smoke they roll in engulfing everything in their path.  Some land on any surface they find; trees, walls, and doors, covering them with layers of flies. Others hover in clouds just at head level, daring you to walk through and breathe them in. All seem to be searching for the most inconvenient place possible to spend their last hours.
                Woe to the person who has a light on at night; much less a computer screen. Matt and I put out candles to distract them, but the tops of the candles get so many dead flies on them that the flies catch on fire and the candles become raging torches and burn out in a few minutes. I have taken to leaving a decoy light on in my house when I am reading. It doesn’t help that the security light outside my house is the only outside light for miles attracting flies like a beacon.
                I am told that in previous generations, lake flies were made into patties and eaten. It seems that people had nets with very small holes that they would wave through the air a few times to collect a bag-full. Then they would dry them, mix them with oil and fry them up.  If your diet is low on protein it makes sense. I guess I should stop complaining and learn a lesson from my Kenyan friends. If the world gives you lake flies, make lake fly burgers.

Friday, February 11, 2011

The day after 2/8/11

I decided to write an entry for the “A day in the Life” section of the PA professional journal. While writing it, I was disappointed that it could not be as colorful as I wanted it to be. So, here is the day after “A Day in the Life”.
5:00 awoken by the only car in the village blaring its horn
6:00 awoken by pigeons playing “king of the hill” on my tin roof. (scuffle, scuffle, scuffle, slide). Go outside and throw rock at said pigeons
7:15 awoken by alarm clock
7:30 down largest cup of coffee I can find. God bless our French press!
8:00 Staff assembly. The entire staff forms a circle. Every person must shake the hand of every other person. Then we sing a song in Dholuo and stand around awkwardly waiting for any potential announcements. People slowly begin wandering off to work.
8:30 Agree to catch a ride to our remote clinic in Ochuna at 9. Begin collecting necessary materials.
9:00 all ready for Ochuna
9:45 actually leave for Ochuna
10:15 Arrive at Ochuna dispensary (two concrete buildings and a grass hut, none of which has electricity). Greet staff and meet my translator for the day (a young friend of one of the staff). Said translator promptly asks me how he can get a visa to the U.S.  . . . sigh
10:30 Set up our public health student to administer surveys for the mothers in our malnutrition group.
10:35 Establish rapor with families in program (ie. play with babies)
11:00 Prenatal exams with only a stethoscope and a measuring tape. Have to inform a woman that she is having twins. “Are you sure?” “Well, either that or the baby has two heads.” She doesn’t seem impressed with either option.
12:30 Measure and weigh babies in malnutrition program . . . play with babies
1:15 Enter Ochuna dispensary data into quarterly report. Spend 15 minutes convincing translator that the calculator on my computer will give the same answer as the one on his phone. More questions about US visas.
1:30 catch ride back to Matoso in the ambulance. Almost hit cow, donkey, and child on the way.
2:00 tuna salad sandwich – I love you, Joyce (our cook)!!!
2:30 Staff meeting complete with extensive condom discussion and near fisticuffs over who is more to blame for AIDS, men or women. Then we pray.
4:30 Back to the house to try to figure out what the heck just happened.
5:15 Hard core workout in my house involving a jump rope and some hand weights. Hi, Jackie, the 1980s want their exercise back.
6:00 Voice of America on the shortwave radio and a beer on the porch with Matt and the cows. Perfect ending to a perfectly typical day.