Sunrise in Matoso 10/22/10

So, I lived in Chicago for 5 years. For more than a year of that I lived in a little studio about 30 yards from the “el” track. Every 10 minutes or so it sounded like a 747 was landing in my living room. After that I figured I could sleep through anything. Then, I came to Matoso.

When one thinks of living in a place on the lake with no electricity, they generally think of silence. Or maybe the calming crickets and owls of a camping trip. Perhaps even sounds of loons on the lake. Then, there is Matoso. Here you go to sleep with the calming sound of waves lapping the shore, the occasional frog or cicada. Then, sometime just before dawn, it starts.

Morning begins benignly enough with the chirping of the little birds in the tree behind the house. Then, everything starts to go awry. First, the fish eagles start. We have four on the property, similar in size and appearance to a bald eagle; similar in sound to 40 seagulls sitting outside your window. Once I am conscious enough to realize that no one is being murdered outside my door I lay back down and wait, because I know it’s coming.

You see, the eagles apparently act as the wake-up call for the roosters. The roosters in turn wake up the dogs who feel the need to bark at all of the cows.  The cows then realize that they have not yet been milked and begin to not-so-subtly remind their keeper. This sets off the donkeys, because, well, they’re donkeys and they like to be annoying. It is at this point that the yelling begins. I don’t understand much Luo yet, so I have no idea what is being said. I assume it is something to the effect of “Hey! The eagles were especially loud today.” “Yes, they were, your donkey seems to be quite upset.” To be fair, everyone is up already, so why not scream at each other from boat to shore. It’s certainly easier than paddling back in. Then, there is the honking. There are only two or three cars in Matoso, so I’m fairly certain it isn’t the morning traffic jam. Maybe they are stuck in a cow-jam.

Good morning, Matoso. And thank you, Matt, for the ear plugs.